This post is part of a series that charts the history of photography since the 1900s. The series takes a decade by decade look at how the skills a photographer needs have changed in light of technological, economic and societal change.

The Rise of Fashion Photography

Pictorialism drew to an end in the 1910s and new applications for photography started to emerge.

Although arguably fashion photography began in the nineteenth century it made a quantum leap forward in the 1910s with the expanding magazine industry (Hacking, 2021).  Magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar lead the charge, employing many of the period’s most influential photographers. In 1913, Vogue employed its first full-time photographer (Adolph de Meyer), recognising photography as a profession in its own right (Hacking, 2021) 

Edward Steichen, who had previously worked with Steiglitz, was a pioneer in the field (Daniel, 2010). In 1911 the Spring collection from Paul Poiret was published in the French magazine “Art et Décoration” which included photographs by Steichen and he would later go on to produce the first photographic cover for Vogue in 1933 (Hacking, 2021).

Before then Steichen was principally known for his portrait photography and had experimented with the autochrome developed by the Lumière brothers.  The fashion magazines of the time played an instrumental role in shaping contemporary culture and how women (of a certain social standing) were portrayed.

Relevant Photography Skills in the 1910s

• Communication skills: Fashion photography placed a strong emphasis on a photographer’s communication skills. They would have to negotiate with a range of stakeholders, such as journalists and editors of magazines, as well as the models they photographed. 

• Understanding and controlling light: A lot of fashion photography takes place in a studio where the photographer has a greater degree of control over light.  It is essential for the photographer to optimise the lighting in order to show the model and the haute couture favourably. 

‘The studio is an important environment for the making of photographic work. Studio photographers create their photographs by adding and taking away light; they model their subjects with different types of light until they get the result they are looking for. Testing through shooting is a major part of studio practice and the studio photographer will be totally familiar with all the different types of lighting available.’

(Fox, 2012)

There are two skills involved here – diffusing light to create attractive images requires skill with a range of light sources and how they are positioned. Booking and utilising studios also requires a different skillset, including planning and administrative skills.

Enjoying the series? Jump back to the 1900s or forward to the 1920s.

References

Fox, A., Caruana, N. (2012) ‘Basics Creative Photography 03: Behind the Image: Research in Photography.’ AVA Publishing SA.

Hacking, J. (2021). ‘Photography: The whole story.’ Thames and Hudson Ltd.