This post is part of a series that charts the history of photography since the 1900s. The series takes a decade by decade look at how the skills a photographer needs have changed in light of technological, economic and societal change.

Richard Avedon and Portraiture

In the 1950s Richard Avedon’s career was just starting to take off.  Richard Avedon (1923-2004) was an influential fashion photographer, but he also excelled at portraiture. Movie stars, such as Marilyn Monroe, musicians like Racmaninoff and even politicians like Barack O’Bama were all photographed by Avedon.

Portraiture requires a particular skill set, especially when you are dealing with people in positions of power who may be very guarded or sensitive about cultivating a particular image. A portrait photographer tries to project aspects of a person’s character by subtly capturing nuances in expression and manner. Not all subjects naturally lend themselves to being photographed so it requires a good deal of patience, confidence and instruction from the photographer in order to scratch below the surface and bring out a dimension of a person’s true character.

Take this image of Marilyn Monroe (see above), when we think of Marilyn Monroe we think of a sexy, exuberant movie star who oozes photogenic appeal, but that is not what Avedon has revealed to us in his image.

Here Marilyn is downcast, suggesting a lack of confidence or dissatisfaction with life, unlike typical portraiture, where the subject looks into the camera and her expression is one of vulnerability.

Avedon recounts the story of the photoshoot (MoMA Learning, 2023) as follows, which for me is as compelling as the photograph itself:

“For hours she danced and sang and flirted and did this thing that’s—she did Marilyn Monroe. And then there was the inevitable drop. And when the night was over and the white wine was over and the dancing was over, she sat in the corner like a child, with everything gone. I saw her sitting quietly without expression on her face, and I walked towards her but I wouldn’t photograph her without her knowledge of it. And as I came with the camera, I saw that she was not saying no.”

(MoMA Learning, 2023).

It is all too easy to see movie stars as figures of glamour and allure, and forget that they are people, just like us. What happens when they don’t have to perform in front of a camera? What then? I imagine they are just as susceptible to all the insecurities and anxieties we all have and are a world apart from the personas they project on the silver screen. This, for me, is what Avedon reveals to us about Marilyn, who is  “like a child,” and there’s something deeply poignant about it. The image not only brings into question the subject, it also challenges our own perceptions.

Relevant Photography Skills in the 1950s

• Understanding and controlling light: As with fashion photography, portraiture often  takes place in a studio where the photographer has a greater degree of control over light.  It is essential for the photographer to optimise the lighting in order to show the desired aspect of the subject.

• Communication skills: Portraiture  involves working closely with the subject to find out more about their character and how this can be reflected. Most portrait photographers may not be so lucky to photograph people in the public eye, like Avedon. However, the portrait photographer still needs to take time finding out more about the person and bring that into the image.

• Applying the right tools for the job: Modern day portrait photographers need to invest in the right equipment to bring out the best in their subjects. A tripod is essential, as is a good fixed lens. I have a fixed 50mm lens, which allows me to create a greater depth of field, blurring out the background and drawing more attention to the subject. A backdrop and/or props may also be desirable.

Enjoying the series? Jump back to the 1940s or forward to the 1960s.

References

MoMA Learning (2023). ‘Marilyn Monroe, actress, NY, by Richard Avedon.’ [online]. Available at: ​​https://www.moma.org/learn/moma_learning/richard-avedon-marilyn-monroe-actress-new-york-may-6-1957/ [Accessed 3rd July 2023].